QUARTZ FA: Kippis 4+ 400m

Totally OFF the route (we tought all day, that we are at crag M), this was realized on the top, when the topo suggested to join an easy walking path down. In reality we topped out a pinnacle, where only way down was a roped traverse (2 pitches) into a dark and steep looking gully on the right.
But now I would recommend this as an introduction climb for the area, good protection, all the way.

QUARTZ: The Lion's Face 400m 5/5+

(c) bob




The Lion's Face (c) bob



lost in the sea of QUARTZ; even the QUARTZ had good & bad pitches, sometimes good gear, sometimes not gear at all, sometimes good friction with good holds, sometimes slippery without jugs. A true mountain route. The Big roof above is the Lion's true right eye.



The not so good 4th belay, but what can you do.. Call mommy? Turning back now with single 60m rope would be same as rappeling PRESTEN with 1 rope and without fixed anchors. Obviously the only way is up, now.





One pitch up from here, the perspective illusion of easier climbing transformed itself into the crux, a pitch of steep & loose quartz.




last pitch of climbing, looking downwards, immediately after pulling the crux section of the route (steep & loose). Actually I ripped some holds off, literally.




On this rock, a perfect belay.



This is where actual climbing finishes, only an easy gully to top waiting.



Andy getting close to top, just before sunset..

Espolon central 4+ ***

We had a friendly contest of who's back at the car first, boys or girls? Guess who won? Boys time was 7.5 hours from car-top of PUIG- car (inc.edwards finish), can't remember what was the girls time..? are they still there maybe.. hehhhee.



At least, put one piece of gear in! I was shouting here, but ilari was feeling too honnold for that.





Speed is the ticket to summit.



Ilari having a face like The Släbi ry. members when discovering a new bolted crack. This time it was rappel anchors, though.




Beatiful view of Penis-dorms rising Falloses from the top of Puig Campana

The world of grades

After sending Lourdes (8a) Johannes is having a rest day by climbing some easy 7b:s..



3rd 7b onsight that restful day..





I heard that Johannes climbed this on the next day I left, congrats for the effort!! Swimming through the shark-attack, 8a+/b at Poema de Roca. I had some problems with the cinch when belaying..



Finnish climbing machine warming up on Chorro Mundo (7a+)



Johnny going something (7b?), BIG thanks for the car lift!!



Wild camping and no tent, ain't so expensive.. Cafe con porros





Another viewpoint Shark-attack at Poema de Roca

Casal Pianos

C'a torre às costas : 6b, (c) tiia

shira goru, lahaul, india jokunen vuos sitte

jaala boulders