QUARTZ FA: Kippis 4+ 400m

Totally OFF the route (we tought all day, that we are at crag M), this was realized on the top, when the topo suggested to join an easy walking path down. In reality we topped out a pinnacle, where only way down was a roped traverse (2 pitches) into a dark and steep looking gully on the right.
But now I would recommend this as an introduction climb for the area, good protection, all the way.

QUARTZ: The Lion's Face 400m 5/5+

(c) bob




The Lion's Face (c) bob



lost in the sea of QUARTZ; even the QUARTZ had good & bad pitches, sometimes good gear, sometimes not gear at all, sometimes good friction with good holds, sometimes slippery without jugs. A true mountain route. The Big roof above is the Lion's true right eye.



The not so good 4th belay, but what can you do.. Call mommy? Turning back now with single 60m rope would be same as rappeling PRESTEN with 1 rope and without fixed anchors. Obviously the only way is up, now.





One pitch up from here, the perspective illusion of easier climbing transformed itself into the crux, a pitch of steep & loose quartz.




last pitch of climbing, looking downwards, immediately after pulling the crux section of the route (steep & loose). Actually I ripped some holds off, literally.




On this rock, a perfect belay.



This is where actual climbing finishes, only an easy gully to top waiting.



Andy getting close to top, just before sunset..