sunnuntai 15. toukokuuta 2011

Monte Pölly (translates to be absolutely shit-faced)

Story starts from 2008, when I heard rumors of high quality thin cracks on perfect rock, which might be a bit hard to protect, rumors of almost ground-falls, saven only by small aliens.. Even the first ascensionist used some pre-placed gear on FA.. All this sounded too good to be true.

Despite of all I had heard from the place, I had expectations and that might not be good if crag doesn't please. But no worry this place was even better than I expected.

So here's the gem, hidden in deep Sawo. Kuus-aa absolutely Pöllyssä!

Nice photography mostly by Anna Pekkanen.

This is what climbing is all about, hot pussycats and fast cars.

the younger, soon to became a father Pekkanen shows us the moves.

Is this Yosemite? Wearing 5-10 half domes on a half-dome!

Jihaaa!! what's happening here? I am not sure..

Now STOP reading if one wants to keep FAMILY BUSINESS as a onsight!

If this crackline, which doesn't take bomber gear all the way was bolted, I would disagree strongly. Sporty whiners; stay away!

important for serious-trad is to be mentally well prepared, right state of mind is a thin line

this climber got himself too high withour gear, so careful spotting is needed.

first crux

getting already pumped before the another crux

get as much gear-in as possible

similar gear on this place, saved my friend's ass from a groundfall, because gear above this ripped out, according to the tale. (Terveisii Herra H:lle!!)

I am too pumped & scared to do the last (easy) moves. But what can you do? Suck it up.

anna mennä!

the trusted belayer

Smoked-chicken, is there nothing left to eat?

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